The main assemblies of the Anycubic i3 Mega 3D Printer come pre-built, which means the overall build is easy enough (even for beginners) to assemble the machine an hour or less. Oh, and as mentioned: Wear those blue gloves. Those rods are greasy!
Anycubic i3 Mega Assembly Part 1: Unpack and Check the Parts
Start by removing the components from the package and check if all the parts are there. There’s a useful list in the manual that should help you. Lay out the parts in front of you.
You will need the base and the frame first.
Anycubic i3 Mega Assembly Part 2: Assemble the Frame
In the first step, you attach the frame to the base. You only need to fasten 8 screws, four on the right side, four on the left. Make sure the orientation of the frame is right. The letters “Anycubic i3 Mega“ on the frame should be visible if you look at the front of the 3D printer.
Anycubic throws in 10 screws in our bag, so you’ll have some spares if you need them. Fasten the screws tight, but don’t overdo it.
Anycubic i3 Mega Assembly Part 3: Wire it up!
Depending on your region it’s power grid, you can use the Anycubic i3 Mega 3D printer with either 110 V or 220 V. The switch for this is found on the left side of the base. You can use an Allen key to switch to the correct local voltage.
Next step: Attaching the wires.
Also, this is extremely easy, as everything is color coded. There are three cable connectors: red, green and black. You will find the green and black cables hanging from the frame.
Locating the red cable proved tricky, since it had moved into the frame during transport and packaging. We found it in a cavity on the lower left frame (see image above).
With that, you’ve completed building the Anycubic i3 Mega 3D Printer. Still, you’ll need to setup the spool holder and feed the filament into the Bowden tube.
Anycubic i3 Mega Assembly Part 4: Build the Spool Holder
The spool holder is not just an accessory, it prevents your filament spool from getting tangled up.
The Anycubic i3 Mega spool holder comes in four parts. First, you might want to peel off the protective paper stickers. This fiddly process took nearly as long the assembly thus far.
The rest is easy: Just insert the nuts into the side parts and fasten them. Please be careful, as these acrylic panes will break if you apply too much force. Place the rod on the spool holder – and you‘re done.
Anycubic i3 Mega Assembly Part 5: Feed the Filament
The last step is also easy to manage – feeding the filament into the Anycubic i3 Mega 3D printer. Put the spool on the spool holder and check the filament. The first 10 centimeters of our filament were wonky and bent. Make sure you get a straight strand, otherwise the filament might get stuck in the Teflon tube leading to the hotend.
The next step is different from most printers. The Anycubic i3 Mega 3D has a dedicated filament sensor. It will detect when the filament runs out and stop the print automatically – a sophisticated feature for a sub-$500 3D printer.
Just thread the filament into the sensor. You can find it hanging loose on the right side of the printer. Having done that, attach the sensor to the frame by holding the metal ball to the magnetic plate directly under the feeding mechanism. It should snap right in.
Now it‘s time to start the Anycubic i3 Mega 3D printer for the first time and pre-heat the nozzle. When it has reached the right temperature, you can feed the filament from below into the motor by pressing TOOLS >PREHEAT on the touchscreen. As soon as the filament comes out of the nozzle, you’re ready to go.
Anycubic i3 Mega Assembly Part 6: Level the Bed
Leveling the bed is a pretty straightforward procedure. You need to get Anycubic i3 Mega’s bed to a perfectly horizontal position, so the extruder can print on an even bed.
First, remove the paper sheet from the bed – but don’t throw it away, we’ll need it in a minute.
On the touchscreen, go to TOOLS > HOME > HOME ALL. This will move all axes to the outer- and innermost positions. Then you have to disable the motors (HOME MENU > SETUP > MOTORS > DISABLE), so that the axes can move freely.
Put the piece of paper under on the printer platform, then manually move the printhead back and forth. Avoid any nozzle contact with the bed, so keep your eyes peeled. Move the print head to the front left corner. Tighten or loosen the screws until you feel a drag on the paper from the nozzle. Repeat this procedure on the diagonal corners until the bed is even.
Anycubic i3 Mega Assembly: The Verdict
Building and setting up the Anycubic i3 Mega was easy as 1-2-3. It took us longer to peel off the labels from the spool holder than to set up the printer itself. All in all, it took us 30 minutes to set up the Anycubic i3 Mega 3D printer.
The documentation is written in plain English and helpful if you run into problems.
What we liked so far is the build quality of the Anycubic i3 Mega. With the exception of the touchscreen and its trapped dirt, the whole printer makes a sturdy impression.
Cable management is excellent, there’s virtually no way to wire it incorrectly (besides the 110 / 220 V switch, of course).
It’s also worth noting that the touchscreen is fast and responsive. It would seem that Anycubic invested in a decent chipset to keep the user interface running buttery smooth.