The Creality CR-10S now offers a second rod for the z-axis, which improves the build quality by reducing wobble in the prints. When printing taller models, this reduced wobble really helps to keep everything consistent.
In case of a power failure, the Creality CR-10S remembers where it left off and will resume printing when you start it up again. Again, especially if you’ll be using the entire build volume of this printer, this is a really useful printer. No one wants to wait a few days for a print only to have it all go to waste because of a power failure.
Filament Runout Detection Sensor
This is a new feature that‘s found more often with Chinese 3D printers now. You run the 3D printed sensor between the spool and the hotend. If the filament runs out, the mechanical sensor picks up the information and pauses the print, so you can resume later. This is one of the major improvements of the Creality CR-10S and it is a real print saver — especially when taking advantage of the machine’s huge build volume, where a filament spool may have to be replaced partway.
Old (But Still Cool) Features
Although being marketed as a 3D printer kit, the Creality CR-10S comes mostly pre-assembled. All you have to do is to mount the Z-axis to the base, connect the cables and you’re ready to 3D print. This shouldn’t take longer than 30 minutes.
In the box, you will find just some parts:
- Two pre-assembled frames
- Tools for the assembly of the Creality CR-10S
- Some spare parts
- Spatula for removing the print from the glass bed
- Needle for cleaning of clogged nozzles
- Teflon tube
- PLA filament spool
- Filament holder
- Tape to make prints stick to the bed
- USB cable
- AC cable
External control board
As with Creality CR-10, the power brick and controls are located in a separate external “brick”. The spool holder is mounted on top. While this makes sense — if the spool holder was on top of the printer it would make the machine even taller and would add more wobble to the prints — it also can be very unstable (we suggest taping it to your workspace to avoid a filament spool falling off midway through a print. Trust us, this happens). The heated bed now also uses a MOSFET for electrical safety.
The Creality CR-10S has a heated bed that lets you operate and experiment with a lot of materials. This fella, though he heats up to a toasty 100°C, takes a long time getting ready. Also, despite the fact it’s heated, it’s not an ideal printer for filaments like ABS in its stock state, because it lacks an enclosed build space (but this is something you can certainly add to your printer if printing with ABS is important).
Removable glass bed
The bed can easily be removed to pluck the print off. Also, Creality throws in a roll of tape if you don’t want to print on the bed directly. Though the bed is sturdy and does the job, the glass plate bed suffers a lot of warping and non-stick issues, so it’s important to glue that baby down.